Krabi and around: Wat Tham Sua, Railay Beach and monkey business.

The main challenge of hiring a scooter for the day isn't pulling out our best bartering skills to get a good price nor is it not freaking out on the roads that you share with cattle, motorbikes, cyclists, trucks, tuk tuks, songthaews, taxi vans, goats and the odd occasional car. 

We quickly discovered its finding a helmet that fits. A standard Thai head isn't quite a XXL Western size. Luckily the friendly guy at the rental shop offered to make 'good use' of the hammer he had clasped in his left hand. We turned down his offer with a smiling face and I instead enjoyed playing big sister and pushing the helmet down with a single bang of my fist. 

You could definitely spend a few days in Krabi as there is plenty to explore in the area. 

An English girl we had struck up conversation with the night before had recommended visiting the Tiger Cave Temple. Also known as Wat Tham Sua, there are a few legends around how the area received its name. We heard that a monk used to meditate in a cave that was once occupied by tigers. But then reading about the area it also says that tigers used to live in the cave. Today a marble facade has been built alongside the cave. We were able to walk up into the main shaft of the very modern day looking cave and to try and spot the tiger paw print that is meant to be still visible today. Our luck wasn't with us but instead we listened to a group of monks praying.

A 'casual' stroll up 1,237 steps will reward you with the ultimate view of the area and ocean beyond. The sad thing was spotting the increasing spread of Palm oil plantations in the area.  
Walking up the very steep staircase, through monkeys desperate for a banana (or anything that they can grab off you), each step felt like a climb up Everest. I wouldn't recommend doing this in the middle of the day....

Each time we felt slightly higher than before I couldn't stop thinking, how the hell did they ever construct this? Especially the 278m Buddha statue at the top. Standing about 600m above sea level. Just quietly I think for a mere 5 seconds standing up there, admiring the view below, covered in sweat, we felt like gods. 

You can get slightly off the beaten path in the area. We soon felt that way stumbling upon a Thai wedding taking place with so much pink and white. We weren't invited in for dancing during the reception so moved on towards the water.

Jumping into a longboat, Railay Beach was our next destination. I've read so much about this place and had high expectations of seeing the palm lined beach with soft white sand. I think coming to Thailand in the low season your able to get more of a idea into the real Thailand. That is the version where the beaches aren't constantly maintained and you can see the more rugged side. Wading through water on the Eastern side my first impression was how built-up the area has become over time. Palm trees now fight for space with the resorts. To access the beach on the Western side you walk through the concrete jungle of resorts. You wouldn't necessarily believe the area is still only accessible by boat because of how developed it has become. But one thing that still remains and gives the area such spectacular beauty is the limestone cliffs that hug the bay. Rock climbers have also taken up residence here so it's pretty wicked to watch the die hard climbers scaling the cliffs. 

I think the monkeys in Railay still stake their claim of ownership. We were sitting enjoying a cold drink waiting for the boat back to the mainland. Chilling and chatting about how amazing our day had been. Some people sitting next to us had already had a few branches and berries thrown down in the direction of them from the monkeys fighting overhead. We laughed about how cheeky they were and continued our conversation. Next minute I felt water drip on my sunglasses and down my arm. Tim felt it too. We both looked up at the same time expecting to see grey clouds poking through the trees. Instead we stared up at a monkey relieving himself on top of us. 

I won't extend my huge gratitude to the local who was watering his garden on the way home and accidentally let his hose pour itself over the road, giving us a rinse down of fresh water.

No more monkey business please.

Toodle pip x

Views from the scooter ride. 

Tiger Cave Temple.

A sign of welcoming.... only a few steps to the top.

Wat Tham Sua.

Cheeky monkey.

View from the top.

Standing proud at 278m tall. 

Railay Beach.

Railay Beach.

View from the longtail.

'The Captain.'

That little hotel bar in Krabi

We didn't have to go searching for the 'real' Thailand once we had settled into our new accommodation in Krabi. It found us. 

I'm not talking about the Thailand of golden sandy beaches, swaying palm trees and turquoise waters. We knew that would come soon. I'm referring to what happens after dark and how most of us tourists want to get a glimpse of it for ourselves.

Luckily for us it came right on our doorstep.

We’d arrived in Krabi, a 6-hour drive north from Penang (and a very quick border crossing into Thailand), late in the evening. So far we’ve ‘winged it’ with accommodation. Being the low season most places have rooms available and booking in advance (unless you just have to stay in a particular place) isn’t really necessary.

On a scrap piece of paper we had a few recommendations jotted down. The first two didn’t quite live up to expectations (even for us fairly carefree travellers). The last presented the challenge we’ve faced on several occasions so far, seeing an amazing guesthouse with a fantastic room and host (plus AC) than explaining that you can’t take it as we are after a twin room. Then needing to explain further why, to ease a disappointed face, that you are travelling with family and would prefer to have your own bed. Gestures and smiles would eventually result in laughter as a mutual understanding was made that I just didn't want to share a double bed with my brother.

I could only wear a 17kg backpacker for so long and our last resort was a rundown looking hotel just off the main drag of Krabi Town. After explaining the 'family living situation' a double room was shown by a very young looking bell boy who in a attempt to sell the room had to fight with the window latch to get it open for some fresh air. Second time lucky; after more hand gestures and explanations we had found a room with twin beds. 

Krabi Town definitely has some of the best street food markets in Thailand. Our first evening was spent sitting between locals and Westerners sipping Chang Thai Beer and taking in our surroundings. From the woman working the woks, to the hustler holding a laminated menu, the stray dogs desperate for a bite to eat and the 'dishy' dunking plates in a huge bucket behind each stand, everyone had a certain responsibility and it was interesting to sit back and take it all in. 

We thought we'd wander back through the bar of our Hotel and check out what was happening before calling it a night. Music blared out through the windows as we entered the tinted glass doors. Everyone in the bar seemed to all turn at once to us and give us a look, checking us out. It did make me laugh for before I realised what we'd accidentally stumbled into. Normally it is us, the 'tourists' that stare at everything. Little did we know that we'd walked uninvited into a late night karaoke joint, where anything is possible and anything can happen. I guess arriving before midnight was far safer as everyone seemed to still have their clothes on (just a few loose ties and some leg only shown at this time). 

Once everyone had stopped staring at each other, the singing and dancing quickly resumed like there had never been any interruptions. We took our time walking through the bar. Stopping when a very relaxed but slightly dishevelled looking man called out, 'Where are you from?' in excellent English. Our response, 'New Zealand,' his quick reply back, 'Good country, good country' before returning to concentrating on mastering the slow swagger to the new R&B track that was playing. Swinging through the door back into the sterile world of the hotel reception we joked how we never expected to get this glimpse into Thailand so soon. I had imagined it would only really be made obvious in Patong. 

Later on that night we did a quick search on Trip Advisor. Most of the reviews were from businessmen who all made the same compliment that the restaurant/bar area was well stocked and a great place in Krabi to get a late night drink. 

I'll have my Dirty Martini straight up please....

Toodle pip x

PS - no photos were taken in the Krabi Hotel bar and Google images would not do it any justice. Here's some 'safer' photos of the night markets. 

No Penang Curry in Penang

Driving along the main highway towards George Town, I’ll admit that my first thoughts were where to find the ultimate Penang curry.

A staple offering on any menu in a Western Malaysian restaurant, we grew up salivating over this dish.

We hadn’t even been out of the airport for longer than 15 minutes and already I was scanning the street food vendors fighting for space on the pavement, trying to spot those magical words: Penang curry sold here.

Instead heading in the direction of George Town I felt like I was cruising past a real life Tinseltown, staring at high rises decorated with brightly coloured lights dangling from balconies, hanging from windows and shining for attention on dismal looking apartment blocks.

Wandering around George Town itself, you feel like you’ve taken a step back in time. Aside from accepting your definitely in Asia therefore need to watch both sides of the road like a hawk each time you cross it, the colonial British architecture is noticeable everywhere and a photographers dream to capture on camera.

Chatting to our new mate in the hostel who, when not talking, preferred to keep his eyes shut whilst sitting at the reception desk, didn’t really unearth any amazing stories into why the famous curry couldn’t be found in Penang. I guess that’s because Google is the new storyteller these days….

Interestingly most of the street food vendors that line Lebuh Chulia every night, a throbbing area of activity and the main hub for eating in the area, all sell the same kind of mainly Chinese food, Char Kway Teow. We did spot a stand selling Laksa and the odd Mee Goreng. 

Our not long enough two days we had here (now that is a mouthful to say), did feel like we were acting the role of the typical tourist, ‘ticking off an invisible list of things to see/do.'

That included a trip out to the Keh Lok Si Temple, recognised as the largest Buddhist temple in South East Asia and well worth the interesting bus trip out there.

Around the Esplanade we found Malaysia's answer to Banksy and hagglers taking the opportunity to cash in on the talented graffiti. you can never have enough variations on notebooks with different cover pictures.

From there we found ourselves walking and holding our noses towards the Chew Jetty. Adeptly named after the surname of the Chinese family who first live here, the UNESCO Heritage site still holds the history together of how the first Chinese immigrants to the area lived. Wooden houses sit up awkwardly on stilts made up of anything really; cement filled plastic buckets, wood, brick, all layered on top of each other to support a home. Those who still live in them today have opened a few home stays and there’s a few tourist shops in what you’d imagine were peoples living rooms. Human life in the area is rife, so don’t expect smelling fresh sea air and hearing the seagulls chirping. Walking away from the main ‘tourist drag’ of a wooden alleyway I felt like I had more examples of this made obvious. It did make me wonder if the area is ever discussed from an environmental point of view or just kept as the picture postcard World Heritage site.

Toodle pip x 

Street Food along Lebuh Chulia.

The annual turtle congregation at Keh Lok Si Temple.

Keh Lok Si Temple.

Keh Lok Si Temple.

Esplanade graffiti art.

Chew Jetty.

Chew Jetty.

Holding the house up high, Chew Jetty.

Backyard living, Chew Jetty.

Little bro enjoying a close shave, Little India, Penang.

Arrivals in Singapore

I stood out like a Westernised sore thumb waiting in the Arrivals Hall at Singapore Airport.

Standing amongst the throng of people all staring towards the automatic doors, I took out my homemade sign and let it show itself off to everyone else holding their laminated versions.

It felt weird to be waiting on this side, as the 'Welcomer' to a country that I don't even reside in.

My brother, Tim was expecting our accommodation to meet him at the airport. The night before he spoke to my Mum, and mentioned why his sister that he hadn't seen in almost two years wasn't going to meet him at the airport. I think he only assumed that I had some 'urgent' shopping to do at one of the many malls in this city.

But no, there I was last week waiting next to 'Jan Lo Cheng' for Air Asia transfers' and the impatient, pacing driver holding up a piece of thick card with a name written in Mandarin. 

The shock on his face to see me was priceless. I love a good surprise. 

Toodle pip x

Lao Pa Sat Night Market Satay frying.

Just a casual cruise ship modeled on a few high rises. 

The concrete jungle of living.

Arab St.

Adios Arguam Bay

I'm continually getting distracted as I'm tap taping away on the keyboard.

There's a little girl running around the Departures Lounge at Colombo airport. She's wearing what looks like her 'Sunday best' dress, although it's only Wednesday. Her brother is chasing behind laughing his head off. Each time he catches up with her she trips over and skids along the polished lino floor. It's a struggle for her to get up as she is wearing his sandals that are at least three sizes too big for her. There isn't any tears just constant laughter.

A Mother dragging her daughter by the arm in the direction of the public toilet steps into this invisible playground. She hasn't noticed the two children running around in hysterics but her daughter has and is desperately tugging her arm to be released so she can go play with them.

They look like they're having so much fun; running, sliding and skidding that I'm tempted to be the bigger kid and ask if I can play too. I better not, as I don't think it's fair for her to try and wear size 10 sandals. 

We arrived back in Colombo from Arguam Bay this morning again in record time. Sira Deen, aka the Michael Schumacher of Sri Lanka did manage to bring me back in one piece.

My journey was accompanied by his brother-in-law, a very serious man who played with his iPhone for the entire 6 hours and his friend who was silent in the beginning but quickly found his tongue wanting to know everything about my life including what type of breakfast cereal you can eat in New Zealand. They're both been given a great deal with the free ride to Colombo as I'm footing the 20,000 LKR bill to get back here.

Once the sun rose at 05:30 this morning the streets have began to pack out. Cows dodging Tuk Tuks. People on bikes avoiding bumping into Goats. The scenery ever changing from little towns with ATMs everywhere, street markets, tea plantations, rice paddies, a huge Catholic church and meditation centres.

I feel like I've broken a barrier this morning between gender differences. We stopped for tea and I was invited to sit with the men to drink and eat our vege rotti together. It was a small but noticeable change that I was involved in conversation that didn't revolve around my martial status instead we joked about how expensive Arguam Bay is compared to the rest of Sri Lanka and I reenacted how loud his brother-in-law snores making trumpet noises.

My arms are feeling like sloppy spaghetti after 9 solid days of surfing. August is usually the busiest month in Arguam Bay so I'm glad to be leaving at this time but sad to say goodbye. For an intermediate surfer you've found wave heaven here. Aside from the crowds and the weekend when the swell rose to 6ft plus the waves are usually a consistent 2-4ft and thanks to the swell breaking evenly across the reef, the main point of Arguam Bay provides a long ride to practise turns and tricks (if you can). After a day in the water nothing beats an intense shoulder massage at Stardust Hotel to release any remaining tension.

I've met so many crazy characters here that saying goodbye was hard. From the ADD Austrians who've lived here for 6 weeks now and know everything about the area to the mad Frenchman who leaves money everywhere and won't understand your pronunciation of any French words.  The guys at Sandy Beach Hotel who comment on everything I'm doing at any given time. Our Tuk Tuk driver who when you say, 'maybe I'll head to Crocodile Rock for a surf tomorrow' will take the 'maybe' as a definite 'yes' and be waiting for you at 6 am. 

But it's my new Mama and Papa that I'll miss the most. Always smiling, laughing and joking. People who had lived through extreme hardship at times but still have so much happiness in their souls They've both lost family and friends during the war and when the Tsunami hit. They no longer own the land where the no Siam View Hotel exists. Instead they rent the tired looking Lagoon Restaurant and Guesthouse where the most delicious food is served from a building that looks like a post Tsunami relic. 

Each day, I've been welcome with open arms. Stepping inside I can hear Mama's laughter. They great me as their friend, and I always call them Mama and Papa.

You never leave hungry here and they always have enough to feed an army.

If your ever in town go and spent some time with them at the Lagoon Restaurant and Guesthouse Have a curry and a chat. Taste the most delicious juice. Play a round of Carrom (Sri Lanka/Indian 'finger snooker') and listen to Mama's belly full laughter.

Toodle pip x

Our famous Tuk Tuk drivers chilling out at Elephant Rock.

Waiting at 6am.

Arguam Bay and the rat pack of dogs.

Main Street, Arguam Bay.

Mama and Papa. 

Sri Lanka: Cultural do's and don'ts

Don't eat your curry with your left hand. Don't look at anyone in the eye. Never smile when you see the mobile bakery drive past. They'll turn around and come back for you. Donuts and all. 

Always order the opposite of what you actually want. That way you'll than receive it. Don't get worried about the hour long wait. Your on island time.

Expect to have your photo taken (anywhere). A rude finger won't stop the camera clicking so just go along with it. But don't smile.

If you ask to get some washing down at 09.30 am, don't expect it to happen today. But maybe tomorrow.

When a Tuk Tuk driver asks you if you want to go to another break for surfing the next day, even if you just say, maybe, they'll take this as a written contract and be waiting for you the next morning. 

Although I've also said, no, and even then they were waiting the next morning.

Listen to the locals when they warn you that there are crocs living in the river. They just didn't say that there were at least 30.

And when you do eat your curry with your left hand (yep, I'm going to blame it on the face that I am left handed), expect to have an Austrian draw a random picture of you trying to eat your curry.

Toodle pip x

Me eating a curry (not a carrot)

The crazy Austrian with his work of art?

Mobile bakery.

Never order what you actually want.

Arugam Bay: End of Ramadan and sea time.

Today marks the end of Ramandan. This afternoon the festival begins.

Last night I noticed the start of the celebrations kicking in. Fireworks were let off down the main street of Arugam Bay. Walking along to the best local curry house, a woman in a sari approached me smiling her head off. I was able to make out through hand gestures and broken English that she wanted me to give her 'good greetings' for tomorrows celebrations.

It feels like everyone is off to a wedding today. All the men working at my accommodation have had their haircut, a wearing clean patta vetty, the shirt and long (sarong) like cloth they tie around their waist. 

Most people will be finishing work early this afternoon to spent the remainder of the day with extended families for feasting and rejoicing that they've made it through another Ramandan.

I can't imagine how bad the indigestion will be afterwards.

As I write this, Hassan, dressed in his crisp white shirt and hat, approached me to say that he is off for the day now. And if anyone comes to enquire about accommodation or check-in, if I can call them. How I'll call them I don't know as no number has been left. I joke to him that I am now the Manager. He laughs his head off. It's the first time I've actually seen him smile. 

It's going to be an interesting afternoon. 

Toodle pip x

Getting to grips again on a baby wave at Elephant point (note our Tuk Tuk driver in the background who was yelling instruction on what wave to catch).

Elephant point.

Elephant point.

Drinks shack at Elephant point.

Arugam Bay (main point in the distance).

Tuk Tuk convoy. 

Okanda (highly recommend).

Okanda.

Okanda.

Okanda.