Thursday 18 July 2013

Cappadocia: A playground for kids of all ages.


I feel like I’m in my own Star Wars film. It’s the Return of the Jedi and I’m dressed in a long cotton cloak, my hair is plaited, rolled in buns above my ears and in my hand is a saber.

But in the background I can hear the R.E.M sound track, Man on the Moon.

Then all of a sudden Fred Flinstone appears. Or was that Obelix carrying a huge triangle shaped rock on his back?

This all may sound slightly random. That’s because it is, especially when I’m no expert on Star Wars films  (although I do love the scenes with the Jaba the Hut).

But everyone has a different way of interpreting what the Cappadocian landscape means for them, even our tour guide yesterday who said that it’s like a dream.

I must say that I did learn yesterday that there is speculation over whether Star Wars Episode 1 was even filmed here. Rumour has it the actual location was Tunisia. I’ll leave that up to the Star Wars groupies to argue over.

It’s our last day here; the camera now has over 300 photos (at least) of different rock formations. I’m sure every visitor to this region must upload the token Facebook album with each photo titled, ‘Rock 1, Rock 2…. Ending in Rock 200.’ Maybe with the inclusion of the names given to each type of formation or the words: ‘at sunset’ just to jazz things up a little.

To get sick of staring at this amazing landscape seems impossible. It’s simply stunning. Especially at 05:30 when the sun rises and around 50 hot air balloons take to the horizon. Or in the evening during a walk through the Rose Valley admiring the sun slowly declining. Each time you look at the surrounding landscape you spot something different. Maybe a horse or dogs face in the rocks, a new set of pigeon holes; another cave that monks may have lived in or the chimney tops of the rocks.

For once I do agree on what every guidebook has to say about this area. Feel free to think otherwise, but for me I haven't seen any other landscape in the world quite like this one. It's certainly special. 

Our home for the past 3 days has been a cave but with all the mod cons, it’s strange taking a shower in a cave that is also equipped with a hairdryer. I don’t think this novelty will ever wear off.

Staying in Goreme; this little dusty town is the beating heart of Cappadocian tourism. The main drag is lined with a few ATMS, carpet stores, motorbike and cycle hire and tea shops. There’s a definite laid back attitude about the place. Since leaving Istanbul we’ve adopted our Western style of dress again. It’s a cool change especially when the days are sweltering. Because of the influx of tourists within the region (surprisingly a significant amount of South Koreans) you don’t feel like your disrespecting the culture by showing shoulders and legs. The sun sets slightly earlier here than Istanbul, kids are playing in the back streets until late with a few chickens around and outside the mosque locals break their Ramadan fast for the day.

Boredom in Cappadocia can only come to those who seek it. There aren’t a million tourist agencies here and hot air balloon operators for no reason.

In the heat of the day we’ve walked and bused our way around most of the sites in the area mixing things up to see places ourselves and going on the famous ‘Green tour’ to check out the underground city, Derinkuyu which I’d highly recommend. The city was once occupied by about 5,000 people (although they only lived there for up to 6 months at a time), and descends to about 35m below ground with 7 levels. Meaning that you need a guide to take you through or you’ll easily get lost. It’s insane to wander or shall I say crawl through narrow tunnels then enter large chambers that were once used as living rooms, for wine-making or as stables for live stock. There’s even a small church and a morgue.

Afternoon tea was spent wandering through the Ihlara Valley. Then drinking çay on huge lounges in a hut perched over the river with a few nosey geese for company. I couldn’t picture more of a relaxing place to chill out in. Even if the geese were trying to steal our sugar cubes.

The region is also famous for its wineries such as the Kocabag winery in Uchisar. We knew to not expect anything on a scale to what there is in New Zealand but to expect a great tasting dry red and the fact that grapes are sourced from the villagers who have vines growing in hidden valleys throughout the region.

I’ve been really spoilt in Cappadocia with so many good luck charms coming my way. My clothes are now adorned with too many safety pins containing a few brightly coloured beads and the eye of Medusa or a Peacock eye (everyone I speak with has their own opinion on what it represents) that is meant to give the receiver good luck. But today, our last day here I received what most Westerners are used to getting as a sign of ‘best wishes.’ We all laughed at Phil the other day when he became a victim with a huge drop landing down his arm. Mine landed on my head. I even felt it hit. A big dropping from a small sparrow; hopefully that’s all the good luck coming my way for now.

Toodle pip x

Künefe, a dessert made from angels hair noodles, cheese and syrup then baked.
Goreme Town.

Too many opportunities for Good Luck in Goreme.


Rose Valley.
A very hungry goat.
Uchisar 'Castle.'
Pigeon Valley walk.
Rose Valley.
Frescos in the Goreme Open Air Museum.

Rose Valley walk.
Sunset.

Eye of Medusa? Or a peacock eye? A sign of good luck?

Derinkuyu Underground city.
Selima monastery. 

Ihlara Valley.
Fresco painting.


Ihlara Valley afternoon tea over the river.

Cappadocia Hot Air Balloons.



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