The slow crawl home: Sarajevo: Respect.

My initial preconceptions of Bosnia, in particular, Sarajevo were built upon what I witnessed on TV as a kid and what friends have retold after recent visits.

For me, the Holiday Inn, an orange and yellow refugee for International journalists covering the war stands out. I think my school did partake in a Red Cross scheme whereby we wrote letters and sent gifts to the children of Sarajevo but those are hazy memories now, but for those who lived through these years this time is still not buried away and remains very fresh.

Friends recommended to me that the first thing you do when arriving in Sarajevo is spending some time with Neno, but don’t get this confused with that little goldfish Nemo.

But first we needed to get a quick pep talk from Kennan, who informed us that Sarajevo is now the 7^th safest city in the world. But please, please can we not wear any jewellery as the other day a Kiwi woman had her necklace torn off her neck by a local child.

He really made a point that she was a Kiwi. But that story didn’t have any impact as we felt beyond safe in this city.

Neno is about our age and runs his tours once he has a full house (but keeps to a maximum of 10 people). I’m not sure how you manage to articulate a clear and concise road map in history of this country, but he achieved it with huge praise. I won’t go into too much detail as I’d recommend you spend some time with Neno yourself and here what he has to say. All I can say that he manages to allow you to form your own opinion on what is a very and still very complicated history. He is a book of knowledge thanks to dedicating his studies to history and the passion to forgive – but never forget.

Our tour and time with Neno ended with a typical Bosnian coffee whilst trying to not give money to the begging kids. Each question we asked him that mainly focused on the recent history was given an honest and heart rendering answer. But that would trigger off another question hungry to know and try to understand.

6 April is the Memorial Day. Neno recalled what they did last year. Tito Street was ‘decorated’ with 11,000 chairs. A seat for every victim of the war. Each chair coloured red as a remainder of the bloodshed. There was a silent pause from Neno who let his tears fall. You could tell we were all wanting to say and express something. But nothing would help soothe what he and everyone in Bosnia have witnessed and endured.

A pinch of insight into the hardships has been graphically captured in the History Museum and at the Tunnel of Hope. There is now only 10m left of the tunnel. Initially it stretched over 800m, only 1.5m in height from the Kolar house, airport than into the city. This did become the man made structure of hope for the locals, used for transporting food, weapons and carrying the wounded. Walking through it it’s hard to really comprehend that a local would carry at least 50kg on their back through this tunnel (often taking at least 45 mins to get through).

Everyone still talks about what little food there was to eat over these years. Soldiers were paid in cigarettes, and a bag of flour would cost over 100 euros. Food rations were provided, mostly expired goods dating back to the Vietnam War. Ask any local what a can of gold and blue with stars down the middle and the words ‘beef’ on the side represents. Usually you’ll get a shudder with the response that even their dog wouldn’t eat it now.

But this city is moving on. Although you do hear the words echo, that they have ‘forgiven but will never forget.’ The reading and education I’ve had in these past few days has given me so much respect and admiration for these people. The determination to continue ‘normal life’ during these years with the desire for peace always remaining at top of mind.

Everyone we’ve met so far has been amazing. So hospitable. From a brandy tasting session with our Hostel owner. Through to our cab driver staying with us at the train station to chat about New Zealand. For me, Bosnia so far and Sarajevo in particular is a country that you’re welcomed in. And even better treated like an old mate.

Toodle pip x