Erupting into loud laughter (that I think turned a few Belgium heads, as conversations immediately piped in my direction about Lord of the Rings), he then turned back to me and said, "Do you speak Turkish?"
Again, I said no (and in English unfortunately. Damn my failed attempts at Turkish).
He then said to me, "Well, if you drink more Ouzo than you'll be fluent in no time."
I politely thanked him for the tip and headed towards Hagi Sophia.
That short but insightful conversation nicely summarises a few observations I've had so far in this ridiculously hugggeee city.
Catching up with a friend a day ago, we spent the afternoon feasting. Literally. Kicking off with Çiğ Köfte a raw beef dish (that you don't actually realise the beef is raw as it's so delish), mixed with chili, tomato and fresh lemon. You need to eat it wrapped in a lettuce leaf with fresh coriander and then wrapped in flat bread.
Mussels in Turkey are a must to try. To impress a mussel hungry Kiwi (of the seafood kind), I had to try. Each mussel is hand shelled, filled with a salty risotto rice then sealed back up with the mussel intact. Carbs and seafood (followed by beer), pure bliss. I wonder if New Zealand would be keen on the combo? I'll have to put this to the test when I'm back home.
A fish sandwich is the perfect accompaniment to follow. Large, chunky fillets served with fresh garlic, coriander and onion in a squishy white bread bun. I was about to burst at this stage. But all savouries need to follow with a sweet. That being fried maple syrup balls that are crunchy on the outside.
Jade I have to thank you for helping me to further appreciate epic Turkish cuisine.
During our ultimate dining experience, far from the 'tourist zone' of inner Istanbul, I did notice everyone around us pre-ordering food and waiting until the clock hit 20:47 so they could start eating after the sunset. I do respect those immensely who practice Ramadan. The New Zealand 40-hour famine is the closest stretch for me. But it was interesting to receive a compliant from someone sitting with us outside the fish shop if we could refrain from drinking beer. We weren't doing it too openly and in anyone's face. However we stopped and headed for a nearby park to eat and drink instead. Although walking a block away we wandered past bars with people drinking alcohol. I'll leave my opinion blank here.
The haggling came to a standstill yesterday once I stepped onto Burgazada Island, part of the chain of Princes Island's about an hour boat ride from Istanbul. It felt like a world away from the fast pace of the city and expectation to cover-up. The only traffic on the island comes from service vehicles. Horse drawn carts instead built up during 'rush hour' (that's when everyone awaiting the 18:00 ferry back to the mainland) and instantly you feel a chilled out vibe in the air. Most of the architecture is Ottoman style, houses dotted over the coastline down to little swimming holes. My company was a few stray dogs. I'll have to admit, the relaxed vibe on this island did encourage swimming with ease knowing that the only company I had and those watching me where two stray dogs.
Gobble Gobble x
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| Delish. |
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| Jade and I awaiting our fish sandwiches. |
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| Sultanahmet. |
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| Princes Isl. |
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| No stinking exhaust pipes around here. |
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| Princes Isl. |
