Showing posts with label Princes Islands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Princes Islands. Show all posts

Monday, 15 July 2013

Istanbul: A quiet coffee on Istiklal Street.


The bigger girl from the group of four must be the older sister, ringleader or simply has more confidence than the others.

Sitting outside the café, we notice that she sticks her hand out first to the group of smartly dressed men sitting opposite us. In her hand is a packet of Kleenex tissues. The men ignore her for a couple of minutes. I have to admire their tolerance as I watch from another table. The rest of the girls are eyeing up the half-eaten cake, making motions with their hands at the cake then up towards their mouths. No words are really spoken, just verbal gestures.

Eventually a packed of tissues is sold and a few coins dumped into the bigger girl's now empty hand. The rest of the girls have sweet caramel sauce now coating their fingers and the cake plates are empty. 

Then, out of nowhere two burly men appear. Dressed in plaid clothes but with matching camel coloured vests, one of them seizes the bigger girl by the arm. The other girls have started shrieking. The bigger girl is dragged out into the middle of the pedestrian only street. Two of the other girls follow her. One isn’t sure what to do and hides behind an empty café chair, perhaps weighing up her options.

At the same time, whilst this is all happening we notice that out on the street two guys who were initially selling perfume from their backpacks have ‘exited stage left’ up a staircase next to a women’s clothing store. One minute they where making quick sales, the next they’ve gone with the blink of an eyelid.

One of the burly men is on what looks like a walkie-talkie. I’m wishing that right now Shazam had an app where you could point your phone to the person speaking and it could directly translate what they are saying (with a high volume, as we are sitting far away). Nevertheless between us three we’ve already started speculating what that conversation might be.

We notice that the little girl who wasn't with the others decides to reunite herself back to the group and is standing with them, watching and waiting to see what will happen next. Just like us. The burly man hasn’t let go of the bigger girls arm this entire time.

A large blue unmarked Ute turns up. All four of the girls are loaded inside. One of the burly camel vested men has a short chat to the driver, then they are all gone. The Utes drives off. The burly men leave. The perfume sellers return with backpacks to the same spot like nothing happened. The smartly dressed men have left their table. The three of us turn to each other, sit back in our seats, pick up our shitty lattes and comment how someone should recommend people watching from the tables outside Starbucks on Istiklal Street for every visitor to Istanbul.

Toodle pip x

PS the following photos are not, I repeat not related to the above written content. Shame.


Çay anyone? 
Loving the 'Bye Bye' message.

Ferry chaos.

Galata Bridge fishing.

Siesta time.

Prince's Isl: Heybeliada.

Ottoman/Victorian style architecture.

Clash of old v. new.

17 million people in Istanbul. Small?

Aquarium 'beach.'

Sultanhamet at sunset.



Friday, 12 July 2013

Istanbul & Princes Islands: Feasting in peace.

I was walking along between Topaki Palace and the Archaeological Museum when a elderly guy asked me, are you with the Belgium group? I wasn't sure if this was a trick question so stuck with the safe answer, no! 

Erupting into loud laughter (that I think turned a few Belgium heads, as conversations immediately piped in my direction about Lord of the Rings), he then turned back to me and said, "Do you speak Turkish?"


Again, I said no (and in English unfortunately. Damn my failed attempts at Turkish). 

He then said to me, "Well, if you drink more Ouzo than you'll be fluent in no time."


I politely thanked him for the tip and headed towards Hagi Sophia. 

That short but insightful conversation nicely summarises a few observations I've had so far in this ridiculously hugggeee city.

Catching up with a friend a day ago, we spent the afternoon feasting. Literally. Kicking off with Çiğ Köfte a raw beef dish (that you don't actually realise the beef is raw as it's so delish), mixed with chili, tomato and fresh lemon. You need to eat it wrapped in a lettuce leaf with fresh coriander and then wrapped in flat bread. 

Mussels in Turkey are a must to try. To impress a mussel hungry Kiwi (of the seafood kind), I had to try. Each mussel is hand shelled, filled with a salty risotto rice then sealed back up with the mussel intact. Carbs and seafood (followed by beer), pure bliss. I wonder if New Zealand would be keen on the combo? I'll have to put this to the test when I'm back home. 

A fish sandwich is the perfect accompaniment to follow. Large, chunky fillets served with fresh garlic, coriander and onion in a squishy white bread bun. I was about to burst at this stage. But all savouries need to follow with a sweet. That being fried maple syrup balls that are crunchy on the outside.  

Jade I have to thank you for helping me to further appreciate epic Turkish cuisine. 

During our ultimate dining experience, far from the 'tourist zone' of inner Istanbul, I did notice everyone around us pre-ordering food and waiting until the clock hit 20:47 so they could start eating after the sunset. I do respect those immensely who practice Ramadan. The New Zealand 40-hour famine is the closest stretch for me. But it was interesting to receive a compliant from someone sitting with us outside the fish shop if we could refrain from drinking beer. We weren't doing it too openly and in anyone's face. However we stopped and headed for a nearby park to eat and drink instead. Although walking a block away we wandered past bars with people drinking alcohol. I'll leave my opinion blank here. 

The haggling came to a standstill yesterday once I stepped onto Burgazada Island, part of the chain of Princes Island's about an hour boat ride from Istanbul. It felt like a world away from the fast pace of the city and expectation to cover-up. The only traffic on the island comes from service vehicles. Horse drawn carts instead built up during 'rush hour' (that's when everyone awaiting the 18:00 ferry back to the mainland) and instantly you feel a chilled out vibe in the air. Most of the architecture is Ottoman style, houses dotted over the coastline down to little swimming holes. My company was a few stray dogs. I'll have to admit, the relaxed vibe on this island did encourage swimming with ease knowing that the only company I had and those watching me where two stray dogs.


Gobble Gobble x

Delish.
Jade and I awaiting our fish sandwiches.
Sultanahmet.
Princes Isl.
No stinking exhaust pipes around here.
Princes Isl.